July 14 through July 17 –
Arriving in the afternoon at the quaint village of Merkviller-Peschelbraun, Alsace, France, we unloaded our suitcases into an old ‘haunted’ homestead owned by Eric’s Aunt Annie’s cousin Brigitte Hubert. Remarkably, this home held the six of us comfortably, (the boys swore they heard unusual creaking noises) becoming a haven of rest when needed as we were very busy for the next 8 days. Brigitte has four sons. Three of them enjoyed extended stays at Hotel Eric n Leslie over the years.
Quickly we drove to nearby Surbourg to visit other friends of Eric and Leslie, the Keizer family (even Julie their daughter was in town from Australia with her fiancé Blake). Eric and Leslie were so looking forward to meeting the parents, Brigitte and Harold, for the first time. When Bryce and Trent were little, Eric and Leslie hosted Julie at their home twice, initially introduced through Auntie Annie’s Alsatian/California train. They helped Julie obtain an internship at Sony and later aided in getting her a job with one of Eric’s friends who filmed commercials. Never having met the parents, Eric and Leslie then invited Joris, Julie’s 16-year-old brother to come for a summer to improve his English. The exchanges proved to be life changing for all and they have since remained in close contact. So, we now have an extended Alsatian family and they have an extended American family.
The Keizers welcomed us with refreshments in their gorgeous modern home before we walked to their favorite restaurant to consume many orders of a special Alsatian dish called: tarte flambée…served with wine and beer. Tarte flambée is somewhat like a pizza, but rectangular with a thin, crunchy crust and a cream base instead of a tomato paste base. Yum yum. Because it was their July 14th celebration of Bastille Day, the youngers went off to watch fireworks in the nearby town center with the locals. Ron and I returned back home with Brigette and crashed.
Back to the Keizers the next morning for breakfast: Danish lovelies and World Cup cakes in the shape of Soccer jerseys colored bleu, blanc, rouge!!
All of us then drove to the beautifully green and lush city of Baden Baden in Germany, a wealthy small city a bustle with shopping tourists. An old fashion car show attracted some of our guys, while the rest of us enjoyed a casual walk along the pristine city center. Our lunch was at a traditional German beer garden, Löwenbräu Biergarten, serving what else? Beer and sausages, accompanied by accordian music.
Then off we went to the ruins of a nearby medieval castle for a refreshing hike in the cooling rain on that hot n humid day. At the top, we could see Baden Baden and the valley up to the Rhine river marking the border between Germany and Alsace.
Again, that evening, the Keizers lavished us with hors d’oeuvres, wine and a BBQ of scrumptious local sausages while hotly engaged watching the World Cup. After the fantastic win, the guys went off to Haguenau to watch the crazy French impromptu crowds gathered to celebrate the World Cup French Victory. Whoopee! What a coup to be in France July 15thon such an historic occasion winning the 2018 FIFA Soccer World Cup against Croatia?
On Monday Brigette provided delicious coffee, rolls, and fruit from her own trees. There is a small garden on her property where fruit trees offer small apples, etc. The house is where her parents lived and died. It remains in the family as a summer home. Stairs are creaky, rooms full of Alsatian antiques…boys think the house has ghosts. Perhaps…
We joined the Keizers to go to nearby L’Arbri War Museum in Hatten, Alsace chuck full of Alsatian historical living and remnants of the WWI and WWII periods. Most fascinating was walking into a large bunker, part of the Maginot Line. About 30 were built along the Rhine, across 100 miles. Inside were many war machines left by all countries involved in both wars.
A huge lunch of baeckeoffe casserole (3 kinds of meats and vegetables baked all day) like a stew, was held at the Keizers’ again. 
Then off we went to another small village called Betschdorf known for a traditional Alsatian homestead open for tourists and colorful Alsatian pottery, where we got a chance to view the workers painting the charming scenes and flourishes. On the way home, we stopped off at a park created especially for their endemic bird: The Stork. We had no idea how large the birds were.
There were two parent storks feeding two adolescents. The big nest was crowded when everyone was home. At one point an adult, angered at something, starting screeching and flapping its wings making a loud ruckus. What a performance!
With Brigitte on Tuesday, we had planned a tour of Colmar, the second largest city in the area. On the way there, Leslie and Eric’s friend Miriam from Strasbourg met us in Kaysersberg to give us a tour of the darling village where old homes were actually built right over the rather fast flowing tributary. So utterly charming. Geraniums flourished in front of shuttered windows…bright red flowers everywhere. Half-timbered homes on the bottom, half plastered on top. Leslie and I bought the cutest white paper luminaries in the shape of Alsatian girls for keepsakes and Eric just had to purchase a beckoning Mirabelle berry tart. Forced to share a bite with each of us, it tasted so good we went back and bought out half the store!
Then off we went for a winehouse tour in Mittelwihr, a renowned wine producing area. Purchased 4 bottles for later. We also quickly stopped off to view the picturesque town of Riquewihr: a picturesque walled-in village that you had to enter via drawbridge. Some of the houses and structures were built in medieval times but most were built in the 18thcentury and are now meticulously maintained and colorfully painted in yellows, oranges, reds, and even pinks. The towns we visited are in the southern section of the famed Alsace Wine Route located as far north as Strasbourg. The northernmost section of the wine route is just west of Strasbourg, with the largest northern wine town being Marlenheim. Colmar in the south is the capital of Alsace’s wine production.
Once in Colmar, we met up with Brigitte’s Mother-in-law, Suzanne Dietrich-Spindler, a professional tour guide of Colmar still. She was a very stately lady, 89 year-old strong, who outwalked us all which was especially amazing since it was her second walking tour of the day!! We met her in the lovely Restaurant Pfeffel serving traditional Alsatian dishes like the popular tarte flambée which the boys and I ordered. Eric ordered the pig’s ankle with mustard seed sauce. Yum? Our guide explained that the region of Alsace was one of the richest regions of France and was constantly fought over between France and Germany. Upon visiting the region, the French King Louis XIV declared it: the Garden of France. It has an extensive canal system that taps into the Rhine. The town was divided in quarters based on services provided. Tanning, one of the most lucrative but most smelly, was as usual located on the river but further from the center of town. Colmar’s Tanner’s district was restored between 1968-74 and is now considered upper class living. Dating from the 17thand 18thcentury, they are narrow, deep and tall buildings with half-timbering on the upper floors. They stand on a stone base with no foundations or cellars (too much water underneath).
As merchants became more and more successful, their wealth was shone in their construction. A new floor was added with every generation. Thick wooden beams can be seen bending under the pressure of supporting the new construction. The type of wood used denoted the value of the house. The harder the wood, the more valuable the house. Interestingly enough, at some point, the tax man decided to assess the value of the property based on the number of windows. Thus instantly, windows began to be bricked off and disappear, and or painted over in a trompe l’eouil fashion.
Constructed between 1292 through the early 14thcentury by Franciscans, St. Matthew’s Catholic church came under Lutheran protestant domain in 1543 when the Franciscan monastery closed. The protestants remodeled half of the structure into a protestant church, thus it’s the world’s only ½ Protestant ½ Catholic church under one roof with two separate entrances.
Colmar is considered the most picturesque example of the combination of Colombage or Fachwerk (timber framing, “post-and-beam”) house construction butting up to the canals. There is a dam higher in the river that controls the level of the water ensuring that the water remains the same height at all times. It is with great pride in maintenance that Colmar is a star tourist attraction in Alsace: A Must See! Over each of the stores could be seen an artful depiction of their service: pharmacy, butcher. Colmar is also home of important museums. Unfortunately the Hansi Museum, home of Jean-Jacques Waltz’s famous ‘Hansi’ watercolors that depict delightful Alsatian scenes mostly of children in traditional Alsatian dress, was closed.
We did get to visit the birthplace Museum of the sculptor Bartholdi who sculpted the Statue of Liberty, France’s gift to the USA. It was Eiffel who provided the engineering aspect of the statue. The Dominican Church unfortunately was also closed which houses Martin Schongauer’s masterpiece: Virgin in a rose garden. Darnit!
by Rosie Dennis with additions from Leslie Dennis Rigney
